Tuesday, 28 February 2017

Few words about health and safety when using sewing machines

Sewing machines health and safety

  • Make sure that robust needle guards fitted and used
  • Carry out a risk assessment on the provision of eye guards
  • Check that lighting is adequate and stays on when the motor is switched off, eg for safe threading.
  • Vee belt and pulley drives are guarded
  • Seating allows for good posture and ease of movement
  • Electrical wiring is supplied from overhead or otherwise to avoid cables on floors
  • Where automated making-up machines are in use, give special consideration to additional guarding requirements
  • Put a system in place to inspect guards, needles and work areas on a weekly basis
  • Guards should be adjusted for each individual operator's finger size
  • A safe system of work includes removing feet from treadle when threading and changing needles
  • Power should be switched off when carrying out adjustments and needle changing


The information was taken from this website and can also be found here

Wednesday, 22 February 2017

Final evaluation - Design project

1. "look at your environment and find what it is that makes you respond to it"

Finding what it is that makes me emotional, calm, creative, inspired and many other feelings was easy: I did what I always do - I went to the woods! My initial idea was to look for natural materials, maybe project one material onto another and duplicate bits of it I liked.
Yes, I am being vague here.
My first idea was to (maybe) create coasters or trays out of clay, something that will look like wood or trunk and maybe even decorate it with leaves patterns. Well, no. I couldn't go through with this as it was too obvious for me to chose clay as my design idea.

2. "Chose something appropriate and not just for convenience or out of habit"
Well, that killed my initial design, hasn't it? Coming out of my comfort clay zone and doing something different? Challenge accepted!

3. "Avoid being obvious, conventional, safe etc.  Use your new tools,
move forward and surprise us"
Not only I am hoping to surprise you, I have definitely surprised my self in this project. Choosing something that is miles away from my comfort zone and choosing materials and skills I have never used before starting the course.

One thing I found out during my initial research, is that is nearly impossible to brainstorm alone. I had to recruit almost every person I know to think with me, respond to my enquiries, ideas and thoughts, and eventually I also used the wisdom of the tribe, i.e the internet and Facebook to get feedback on some questions that arose during the research.
If there is one thing I needed during this unit and didn't have is a group of minds.

Anyway, I managed to produce an OK mind map, that really, didn't help me much once I got to the idea I wanted to take further, and therefore, quite missed the idea of a mind map. I do believe it shows how the idea developed though, so I cannot complain.

4. "Research the work of other artists"
Well, here is one thing I didn't do. I did not really looked at artists who are inspired by nature. Yes, I can come out with few names that will fit into this frame, names like Carolina Herrera who has a whole line inspired by nature, and maybe a painter or two, as well as shoe designers that would have been a great inspiration, but I chose to focus on nature and cultures. I have explored designs from the beginning of times (Like Adam and Eve's first clothes), I have explored shoes in the world and ecological artists, I have explored materials and styles and I watched dozens of YouTube videos about shoemaking but I didn't research the work of other artists.

5. Action plan and time management:
For once I can honestly say that I managed my time effectively. Maybe it has to do with the other units and maybe I am learning new skills, it doesn't really matter why, but the fact is - I managed!
This time I even managed to overcome a broken machine I was counting on using and I am happy to say that at some point during this project I have found a new passion and I am hoping to take it further.


I got blisters on my fingers! (Reflecting as I go)

I started hand stitching the sole of the shoe a few days ago but it wasn't as easy and straightforward as I thought it will be.
Choosing to use a Hemp rope 6mm wide made it very hard to stitch through and I ended up with blisters on my fingers...
I was about to give up and only put the design sketches on my blog, but thought I should give it another go before handing in the project.


My initial design was much more complicated and probably better designed, but coming to work with the Hemp I realised I have ordered one that was too thick, and if I wanted to execute my design it would have ended up about size 15 (adults), while the designed shoe is size 10 (kids).
it is important to note that these particular shoes are designed for a dry summer as the only sole is the Hemp. I thought of using a rubber sole to be glued onto the Hemp but as it is not a organic or ecological material I have decided not to use it.

Putting the shoe and the sole together requires more hand stitching and I am not capable of doing it in an accurate way, but this is the general idea:
The bit that goes over the top is due to a poor design. Originally it should have circle both pieces and firming the design to avoid separation or tearing of the sole.
I was thinking whether or not I should use glue, but couldn't find anything to say if PVA glue is considered ecological or not, so I haven't used it. I believe it is a dissolvable material.


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What went well:
* The design itself is wearable and is recognised as a shoe.
* Once having the initial idea, it was easy to design and follow the pattern I have designed.
* Although the design is simple, what makes it "Not ugly" is the patterns (paintings) on the fabric. The painting on the fabric can be different, and because it is all hand painted it is always a case of one of shoes.

What went not so well:
* Delays at my work due to broken sewing machine
* The design of the sole and poor decisions as to where to cut the Hemp and how strong the stiches should hold.
* Because the sole is hand stitched it causes a lot of pain and some blisters...
* Having to change the design of the sole.
* The design itself reminds me more of Japanese foot binding than stylish shoes...

Future:
I would love to give this project another go, only next time I will adjust it to my needs, and will probably not choose to go with the idea of ecological friendly design and materials. I believe I can do better with different materials such as Satin on the outside and a lighter material on the inside. Also, I will probably use proper soles so the shoes can be used in every country in any (reasonable) summer weather.
I am still very much intrigued with the Japanese designs and themes and will, without a doubt, use them again in the future.


Sunday, 19 February 2017

Inspiring artist Cheryl Ann Thomas

https://vimeo.com/157770551

Cheryl Ann Thomas Webpage

Cheryl Ann Thomas is a sculptor and that, for me, is the first point of interest. However, the technique she is using and the sculptures she builds are unique and very "Natural" in the scenes of the material she is using the way she is using them. You really need to watch her video to understand what I am talking about.

I am inspired by the rough colours and the tree trunk like outcomes of her work as well as her lack of ability to control the final outcome although she can somehow predict it.

Saturday, 18 February 2017

The rise and fall of the sewing machine and the shoe from Mars

After breaking my friend's sewing machine (And sending it to be repaired) I came across a powerful machine that is great for freehand embroidery. I had to buy it, of course:
This is not a very good photo of my new Delilah but it will do for the purpose of this blog.

Now that I have my own machine I can work towards finishing my design project.
I already had my design cut so all I had to do is putting it all together and pray.
Please bare in mind, that 3 weeks ago I couldn't even thread a needle, but as the brief gently stated, I had to come out of my comfort zone - so I did.

First thing I had to do is sewing both pieces of the wrap bit of the shoe together and somehow close them to form the right shape:


Then I had to sew the bottom piece. First try to fit the pieces together nearly ended up in a disaster because I was about the sew them together into the final shape (As is). Good thing I had an enlightening moment and I flipped the design to sew it from the "other side" (Sorry, I am still not familiar with the terminology):


I know I probably should have done some hand stiches and not use pins, but I felt confident with my new skill and I was working very slowly. Also, I pinned the pieces together further away from the end.
I did miss a bit (not a very big bit, could barely put my finger through it) and had to redo it.

All and all, I am happy with the result:










Thursday, 16 February 2017

Planning and cutting to fit (Reflecting as I go)

I started with planning on paper first, thinking if all goes well I will use the paper pattern to mark it on the fabric.



My feet are way too big to start working on, so I used the sketches to make a smaller pattern and use it as a maquette . As I went on, I realised I needed to change the wrapping piece a bit or it will fold and wrinkle as I go and will not leave enough space on the open top bit. I had to arrange it quite a lot to fit the design I had in mind.

The long piece is folded in half, marking the middle of the heal and ankle. There is no stitch at the back, making the design look "clean".



The paper design is ready. I had some problems putting it neatly together, I thought it had to do with the tape I was using and because I cannot make the paper behave like a material. As I went further with my design, I realised it was not due to the nature of the paper but had to do with my design. I had to change the front top a little to perfectly cover the toes the way I wanted. It took a lot of try and err to figure it out...
Finally I was ready to transform my chosen design onto the material:



This will be the inner material. I still need to cut the other one and sew them together, but first, let's make sure it actually work together:




Well obviously, the material behaves totally different than paper and I was happy to see it holds up nice. However, I am not very happy with the design. I know I am influenced by Japanese art, but this design reminds me more of  foot binding than the classic Japanese gentle shoes. Maybe it has to do with the material I am using, that looks a lot like bandage. It will all change when it is nicely painted!

Now let's copy it to the inner material and sew them together:
Clever. I forgot to flip the design and ended up with the wrong side. No worries, I will use it when I work on the other shoe.

Now it is cut on the right side. Let's sew them together!!!

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My sewing machine broke down and I will need to repair it. I will have to sew it by hand for now. I hope this will not give me too much grief.

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Reflecting on the process:
I knew what needed to be done and I didn't need too much time to plan the work. It did take some online digging to look at designs and figure out how it is done, plus learning how to design the pattern. I did look at lots of DIY websites and only found baby shoe designs and slippers. At first I was thinking of using the baby shoe designs and just make them bigger, but the outcome was not satisfying as it didn't really look like stylish shoes, so I used my initiative and combined few designs together.
I had to improvise a lot, especially when getting to design the wrapping strip. Unfortunately I never learned how to look at patterns, yet alone how to design them! Well, we live - we learn.
As for time management: Once knowing what I wanted to do, it was about an hour to put it together. Unfortunately my sewing machine broke down and I couldn't take it any further.
Future:
I will continue sewing the design by hand just to see if it actually work well together or if I should go back to the design table. I still need to sew it all to the sole (Designing the sole in different post) and that will take some time.







Tuesday, 14 February 2017

Getting to know the materials I am using

I have found the perfect soft fabric to go in inner shoe. It is called Animal fur - Curly cream.
No, it is not made of animals at all, but it's most common use is for crafts, mainly teddy bear making.

It is an acrylic fabric, and because I didn't know what it actually means, and it was very important for me to make sure the materials I am using fall under the "no cruelty and no exploitation" I had to make sure I made the right choice.

Well, here it is then, more information about the Animal fur- Curly cream fabric:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylic_fiber

And this is what it looks like: